Listings for Carburetor Honda ELITE

Carburetor 50cc 2 Stroke Honda Elite Kymco SYM Scooter M CA25
Carburetor 50cc 2 Stroke Honda Elite Kymco SYM Scooter M CA25
   $28.95
See More like this...
Motorcycle Engine Carburetor Carbon Dirt Removal Cleaning Tools Kit For Ducati
Motorcycle Engine Carburetor Carbon Dirt Removal Cleaning Tools Kit For Ducati
   $8.58
See More like this...
Complete Gasket Kit Honda Elite CH250 Cylinder Water Head Base Carburetor O-Ring
Complete Gasket Kit Honda Elite CH250 Cylinder Water Head Base Carburetor O-Ring
   $13.99
See More like this...
Carburetor Honda SE50 SE50P Elite Scooter Carb 1987
Carburetor Honda SE50 SE50P Elite Scooter Carb 1987
   $18.99
See More like this...
Carburetor Honda ELITE CH250 CH 250 1985 1986 1987 1988 New Moped Scooter Carb
Carburetor Honda ELITE CH250 CH 250 1985 1986 1987 1988 New Moped Scooter Carb
   $37.00
See More like this...
Carburetor Honda Elite SA50 SA50P Scooter Moped Carb
Carburetor Honda Elite SA50 SA50P Scooter Moped Carb
   $18.00
See More like this...
Honda NQ50 SA50 SB50 SB50P NB50M spree elite aero carburetor manifold gasket OEM
Honda NQ50 SA50 SB50 SB50P NB50M spree elite aero carburetor manifold gasket OEM
   $5.45
See More like this...
INTAKE MANIFOLD HONDA HELIX CN250 CN 250 ELITE CH250 CARB INSULATOR 9 IN12
INTAKE MANIFOLD HONDA HELIX CN250 CN 250 ELITE CH250 CARB INSULATOR 9 IN12
   $9.99
See More like this...
CARBURETOR HONDA ELITE SA 50 SA50 CARB 1989-2000 M CA25
CARBURETOR HONDA ELITE SA 50 SA50 CARB 1989-2000 M CA25
   $28.95
See More like this...
DIO / Elite main jet kit PB Carburetor HONDA DIO  Elite 50cc PB type carburetor
DIO / Elite main jet kit PB Carburetor HONDA DIO Elite 50cc PB type carburetor
   $18.05
See More like this...
1986 Honda CH 250 Elite Carburetor Carb
1986 Honda CH 250 Elite Carburetor Carb
   $51.50
See More like this...
Carburetor Honda Elite SA50 SA50P Carb Electronic Choke
Carburetor Honda Elite SA50 SA50P Carb Electronic Choke
   $23.70
See More like this...
1994 1995 1996 - 2001 Honda Elite SA 50P SA50P Carburetor Scooter Moped SA Carb
1994 1995 1996 - 2001 Honda Elite SA 50P SA50P Carburetor Scooter Moped SA Carb
   $26.50
See More like this...
New Carb Float Genuine Honda C70 CT70 CT90 CT110 CH80 ATC110 TRX70 TRX90 #F19
New Carb Float Genuine Honda C70 CT70 CT90 CT110 CH80 ATC110 TRX70 TRX90 #F19
   $23.95
See More like this...
E ECHOKE Electric Choke Carb Carburetor FOR Honda Elite CH250 250 S
E ECHOKE Electric Choke Carb Carburetor FOR Honda Elite CH250 250 S
   $14.00
See More like this...
Carburetor Carb w/Electric Choke For HONDA ELITE CH250 1985-1988 Scooter Moped
Carburetor Carb w/Electric Choke For HONDA ELITE CH250 1985-1988 Scooter Moped
   $44.79
See More like this...
Honda Elite CH 250 Carburator  Carb  1985 86 87 88
Honda Elite CH 250 Carburator Carb 1985 86 87 88
   $80.00
See More like this...
CARBURETOR HONDA CH150 CH125 ELITE150 ELITE125 ELITE CH
CARBURETOR HONDA CH150 CH125 ELITE150 ELITE125 ELITE CH
   $29.99
See More like this...
Carb carburetor Honda elite 150 87+ ch150 ch
Carb carburetor Honda elite 150 87+ ch150 ch
   $35.00
See More like this...
E HONDA CH 80 ELITE 2006 OEM CARBURETOR
E HONDA CH 80 ELITE 2006 OEM CARBURETOR
   $89.50
See More like this...
HONDA ELITE SCOOTER 1986 AND UP CH80 CH 80 CARB CARBURETOR KEIHIN OEM GENUINE
HONDA ELITE SCOOTER 1986 AND UP CH80 CH 80 CARB CARBURETOR KEIHIN OEM GENUINE
   $49.99
See More like this...

Related Carburetor Honda ELITE information

Tank slapper: take it for whats it's worth

ZX10Rr*cer said: I was talking to this guy about his bike and in the conversation I was checking out his new Ohlins Damper, and I turned the bars….well I tried to turn his bars the damper was set at 5 out from full stiff and this is how he was riding the bike! I was shocked that he was able to turn the bike at low speeds! He told me he totaled his last bike from a tank slapper and did not want that to happen again!! So I tried to help the guy out and thought there may be more people that have the idea that if a little damping is good then a ton is GREAT! What is a tank slapper? Well 1st and foremost , it’s a natural part of how suspension and how implied forces works! Your coming out of your favorite turn and your hard on the gas! You hit a small Imperfection in the track surface that causes the wheel to be upset { pushed it off it's current path { AKA, it goes the other way} now you have a centrifugal force and oscillating force working against each other! The centrifugal force tries to bring the tire back to straight! The oscillating force try’s to turn the tire from left to right and a headshake grows from that point, and can turn into a full on tank slapper! THAT FORCE has to go somewhere! And you want to keep it in the front of the bike!

k_p_m said: what about when you are hard on the throttle in a straight line and the front end is skimming the concrete, causing handle bar wiggle (hell yes thats a technical term). It was pretty bad on my 04 so I had my GPR higher than 2. I think 5 to reduce that effect.

FTH*ODZX10R said: whats a damper?

c*boose said: i dunno where exactly i have my Ohlins set.. about half stiff i think.. i still get a fair bit of front end wiggle, but no shake. whats a damper? srsly?

ZX10Rr*cer said: what about when you are hard on the throttle in a straight line and the front end is skimming the concrete, causing handle bar wiggle (hell yes thats a technical term). It was pretty bad on my 04 so I had my GPR higher than 2. I think 5 to reduce that effect. That has more to do with improper geometry then any thing else! 99 time out of 100 {even with no damper} that would not turn into a tank slapper, it would just remain a headshake!

Sh*nobiZXR said: I have mine maxed out to 20 clicks on the stockers :lol: cuz I noticed a lot of wiggle in the front at high speeds. After that, none at all. Maybe I will change it to halfway! :badteeth:

Sc*venger8620 said: Mine is all the way as well, no issues with almost 30,000

FTH*ODZX10R said: i dunno where exactly i have my Ohlins set.. about half stiff i think.. i still get a fair bit of front end wiggle, but no shake. srsly? no lol:thumbsup:

ZX10Rr*cer said: Yeah guys if your getting head shake in a straight line all you’re doing by turning up the damper is masking a bigger problem! Your Geometry is off somewhere! And by trying to correct that by cranking down your damper all your going to do is make things WAY worse when the time comes when you really need the damper to work correctly

ZX10Rr*cer said: Mine is all the way as well, no issues with almost 30,000 good for you! I hope you never have a tank slapper, Because if you had, the only issue you would have is what color your next bike was going to be! :occasion1

s*ndboxshooter said: good for you! I hope you never have a tank slapper, Because if you had, the only issue you would have is what color your next bike was going to be! :occasion1 :badteeth:

tr*ckaddict said: I ride with mine pretty tight. I loosen it up for the track to 7-9 clicks from soft (GPR V4) but usually around 13 on the street. Been riding this way for YEARS. Started using dampers in 98 myself and always felt more comfortable with it slightly stiff as opposed to loose. Of course, coming from an RC51 and 01 R1, of which both were tank slappin mofo's, I found it very comfortable and settled the bike down. Now if I could just find the deal on a damper for my Hypermotard. It needs one BAD, but since it has a "D" at the beginning of the name. parts are just outrageous!

tr*ckaddict said: Yeah guys if your getting head shake in a straight line all you’re doing by turning up the damper is masking a bigger problem! Your Geometry is off somewhere! And by trying to correct that by cranking down your damper all your going to do is make things WAY worse when the time comes when you really need the damper to work correctly This is a great point. People often mask their setup issues with the damper... however, even aged bike mechanics cannot setup a bike properly in most cases. So using a damper is MANDATORY. I lost my best friend to a tank slapper gone bad in 06. Had he bought that damper, he would be with us today. i told him time and time again "buy a damper man!!". He wanted to but at $400 and 21 years old, it was a stretch financially.

mr_h*nez said: Good post ZX10Rracer.

tr*ckaddict said: Word. It's these kind of discussions I don't get tired of posting in. There is so much mis-information out there. It's a personal issue with me since losing Kevin 4 years ago.

WLTD said: I have my scotts at half on the street and a tad more on the highway. I couldn't imagine FULL HARD(no jokes people) on the street.

ZX10Rr*cer said: Word. It's these kind of discussions I don't get tired of posting in. There is so much mis-information out there. It's a personal issue with me since losing Kevin 4 years ago. sorry for your loss man! it's never easy loosing a friend! trust me I know! and there is a ton of bad info out there on like ..... well... how to set up a bike period! and not that I know it all, but I do know more then allot of people when it comes to setting up bikes! I have set up 80+ bikes as well as I do my own tuning on mine!

N*nja187 said: I usually hate these threads, but im glad you took the time to break it down. The best thing to do is get upright, try and point the bike in a safe direction and relax. If its out of control take both hands off the bars. If your on the street and getting headshake you need to do one of two things; get your suspension dialed in or get off the street and on a track. OR give me the $500 dollars your going to spend on a damper you probably dont need and ill shoe you in the nuts.:thumbsup:

tj*nkie said: I was running my ohlins unit 4 clicks out from soft. My bike moved around a lot, even on the brakes going into corners. It was very controllable to let it do its thing... Too bad the damper is fucked after I crashed. It doesnt do anything until its 8 clicks up and the knob is a lot harder to turn.

Wh*teZX10R said: I am in the process of getting my OEM damper rebuilt. This thread is very interesting thanks for posting. The oem ohlins damper on my 09 hardly works. How hard do you recommend that it be set when i get it back from rebuild?

c*olgjc said: Good post ZX10Rracer. :+1: :goodpost: I have my scotts at half on the street and a tad more on the highway. I couldn't imagine FULL HARD(no jokes people) on the street. i have my Scott's set just under half (i think). having it cranked all the way up you can barely move the bars.

h*phopn said: wow how do ppl even ride with it hella stiff? mine is on 2 and i can definatly feel the difference on how it handles and i can still make u turns and slow manoeuvrings

ZX10Rr*cer said: I am in the process of getting my OEM damper rebuilt. This thread is very interesting thanks for posting. The oem ohlins damper on my 09 hardly works. How hard do you recommend that it be set when i get it back from rebuild? IMO the stock damper on the 08-10 worked just fine at 10 out from full soft! but most people still thought it was too soft even at max! the biggest prob with the stock unit is not how hard it gets but how the internals work compared to a {for lack of a better word} real Ohlins! a good damper has more resistance under high speed damping!{fast movements} Where as the stock was a linear damping force! But if it was my Ohlins { I believe it has 22 clicks} I would not go more the 7 out from full soft! A good rule of thumb is: as soft as you feel comfortable then loosen it up 3 turns!

c*olgjc said: not that I know it all, but I do know more then allot of people when it comes to setting up bikes! I have set up 80+ bikes as well as I do my own tuning on mine! i asked ZX10Rracer a simple question about sag setup a year or two ago in a pm. he could have answered my question and been done but he didn't. he took it upon himself to give me indepth details from start to finish on how to set my bike up properly WITH PICTURES ASWELL!!!!! only a handful of opinions i value on this site and a couple aren't as active as they once were. good to see an active one post up good info for new riders and a refresher for the seasoned veterans. especially since those of us not riding now have a new season right around the corner:occasion1

k*vlar said: I set mine half way because I knew full hard was to much and full soft was too little. :mrgreen: Thanks for the info! :thumbsup: By the way, I just looked at the 2006 Manual and it says the standard setting is 18 turns out from the fully clockwise position (full soft).

YB L*gal said: good posting. i too began using dampers in '98. my then new gsx-r 750 had a bottom mount from the factory, and soon changed that to a nice top mount that actually wroked. i typically have mine set fairly soft, until i get into my ride, then play with it to get it dialed in to they way im riding that day. i tend to have it a little stiffer on the high speed raods, then back of a bit on the tight technical stuff. but i to have seen soemone get killed right in front of me from a tank slapper. he too was riding a 98 gsx-r, which were notoriously bad for getting into these from 2nd through 4th gear. guy was drag racing, hit second gear went into a really bad tank slapper, it looked like the rear end was trying to pass the front end. ran off the side of the road, and went under a parked car, killing him instantly. not saying the damper could have saved him, more so of an illustration of how bad it can get, and really fast.

d*dewhrsmybike said: I run mine at half or higher. No questions. The front wheel comes up a lot when I ride, so if my wheel is cocked ever so slightly when I come down, I want that damper to be put to work. Sometimes I forget that I left my damper set to 1, and I get mad headshake. GPR with 8 settings.

JLG0987 said: ok so my question is you say something is wrong with the geometry. I assume you mean more than just steering head angle and such please elaborate. As far as setting up suspension I know nothing. Could someone point me in the right direction.

ZX10Rr*cer said: ok so my question is you say something is wrong with the geometry. I assume you mean more than just steering head angle and such please elaborate. As far as setting up suspension I know nothing. Could someone point me in the right direction. Well there is no magic #'s when it comes to set-up so unless we have a clear problem to fix it's not going to be easy you see suspension is the most speculative thing there is IMO you can have two riders same skill level on the same brand bikes and if they switch bikes they will hate the others bike! and loose time on the track! The most important thing you can do is set SAG my sag #’s 35mm front 30mm rear, with 20mm free sag front and 5mm free sag rear, for street you want to add 5 mm or so more to those #’s.. other then free sag! { the only way to get all thoes #’s right is spring rates you can crank your suspension up to the point where you sag #’s look right but you free sag is way off! This IS NOT GOOD buy new springs there cheep!} I like my compassion hard! And my rebound fast! I don’t want the tire to fight to find the ground I like it to snap right back down to the ground after a bump! And a “slow” or hard compassion will give you more feed back from the bike! But all rides will set the comp and rebound #’s to fit there speed, style and comfort levels! The only true constant is sag! And sag is the most import setting you can do to balance you bike!

wh*ler said: what about when you are hard on the throttle in a straight line and the front end is skimming the concrete, causing handle bar wiggle (hell yes thats a technical term). It was pretty bad on my 04 so I had my GPR higher than 2. I think 5 to reduce that effect. This is caused by too much rebound damping in the front, or not enough compression in the rear.

tr*ckaddict said: Great info!!

Kw*kkid said: Well there is no magic #'s when it comes to set-up so unless we have a clear problem to fix it's not going to be easy you see suspension is the most speculative thing there is IMO you can have two riders same skill level on the same brand bikes and if they switch bikes they will hate the others bike! and loose time on the track! The most important thing you can do is set SAG my sag #’s 35mm front 30mm rear, with 20mm free sag front and 5mm free sag rear, for street you want to add 5 mm or so more to those #’s.. other then free sag! { the only way to get all thoes #’s right is spring rates you can crank your suspension up to the point where you sag #’s look right but you free sag is way off! This IS NOT GOOD buy new springs there cheep!} I like my compassion hard! And my rebound fast! I don’t want the tire to fight to find the ground I like it to snap right back down to the ground after a bump! And a “slow” or hard compassion will give you more feed back from the bike! But all rides will set the comp and rebound #’s to fit there speed, style and comfort levels! The only true constant is sag! And sag is the most import setting you can do to balance you bike! Don't you mean COMPRESSION!!!!!!!!! haha

ZX10Rr*cer said: Don't you mean COMPRESSION!!!!!!!!! Umm yeah thanks spell check Nazi!

Kw*kkid said: One other valuble piece of info when it comes to full on slappers would be, don't forget to pump your front brakes once the bike has (hopefully) settled as the brake pistons may have been forced back from the pads due to the forces caused during the slap. Last thing you'd want is to survive a full on tank slapper only to go straight through the next hedge cos you couldn't scrub off any speed!

Kw*kkid said: Umm yeah thanks spell check Nazi! No probs dude. It's import to spell correctly!! lol

l*uemc said: Didn't read all the posts, but...there is another option. The Scotts Damper is valved differently than any other damper. That translates to it does the job when the job is needed. It doesn't bother you with restriction, when there is no need for the restriction (or damping of movement).

*mofo said: i have my Scott's set just under half (i think). having it cranked all the way up you can barely move the bars. Mine turned all the way stiff still feels too soft.:dontknow: I know my susp. needs to be set up as I was getting mild headshake down the front straight at TWS.

*mofo said: Didn't read all the posts, but...there is another option. The Scotts Damper is valved differently than any other damper. That translates to it does the job when the job is needed. It doesn't bother you with restriction, when there is no need for the restriction (or damping of movement). Looks like I need to start running mine softer. BTW I just noticed the Scotts damper says ohlins on the back.:dontknow:

ZX10Rr*cer said: Looks like I need to start running mine softer. BTW I just noticed the Scotts damper says ohlins on the back.:dontknow: Scott and Ohlins ....is like.... Snap-on and Blue Point

*KEVEL said: I did the Kyle revalve on mine, but run it soft enough to where I can just barely feel it when quickly swerving . I think a lot of guys just get spooked when the 10 starts wiggling around under them and think that's what the damper is there for. Coming down a little crossed up when they didn't realize the front was off the ground causes a quick correction and a lot a of folks think that is what we are calling a "tank slapper". The 10 wiggles and slides around real easy, it's normal and you're no where near crashing when it happens. For those who haven't experienced one, let me tell you, a real "slapper" is a resonant lock to lock event that usually occurs at high speed. I believe the stock damper will prevent this, with stock suspension setup. The bars go from all the way left to all the way right maybe 4-5 times a second. The one time it happened to me I was doing about 110 on my 81 Seca 550, and the only thing I was thinking about was how I was going to hit the ground. I had NO expectation whatsoever of riding away, just got lucky and was able to ride it out. It took maybe a quarter mile for the slapping to stop. Traded that old school suspension bike in the very next morning on my first FZR.

s*ndboxshooter said: My first experience with one was full tank slapper lock to lock during some "spirited" riding back in 1982....I had no idea at the time what the hell was going on (on my 81 GPZ550) and just got lucky with the outcome...luckily, once I sat up and let it ride, it straightened out right before a right sweeper. I did have to pull over and shake and pace for 15 minutes or so.........!!!!!!......I hope to NEVER experience one again. I haven't since. Now I'd feel more prepared since I've researched the cause and effect and know what NOT to do.

*KEVEL said: My first experience with one was full tank slapper lock to lock during some "spirited" riding back in 1982....I had no idea at the time what the hell was going on (on my 81 GPZ550) and just got lucky with the outcome...luckily, once I sat up and let it ride, it straightened out right before a right sweeper. I did have to pull over and shake and pace for 15 minutes or so.........!!!!!!......I hope to NEVER experience one again. I haven't since. Now I'd feel more prepared since I've researched the cause and effect and know what NOT to do. Man those were the good ole days. The engines were really starting to put out some ponies and the brakes were decent, but the factory suspensions absolutely sucked !

tr*ckaddict said: I did that on my 92 ZX7R. I went over some railroad tracks and got a full lock to lock'er. I recovered and kept it up. I pulled over and sat for about 10 mins... scary shit.

b*rd_dog0347 said: I disagree, the gas is rarely the problem and almost always the solution. Even Keith Code teaches that... Same thing with wheel spin (rear), if you are in a corner and it starts to spin up and slide sideways a little, don't chop the throttle closed. Just keep it where it is and ride it out. Too much more and you will likely low side, chop it and it grabs traction and you high-side. Same thing for the front, you chop the gas off and now all the weight is on a tire that is unstable. It is important to relax though, you are right about that... There will be plenty of time to freak out after it is over.

s*ndboxshooter said: I disagree, the gas is rarely the problem and almost always the solution. Even Keith Code teaches that... Same thing with wheel spin (rear), if you are in a corner and it starts to spin up and slide sideways a little, don't chop the throttle closed. Just keep it where it is and ride it out. Too much more and you will likely low side, chop it and it grabs traction and you high-side. Same thing for the front, you chop the gas off and now all the weight is on a tire that is unstable. It is important to relax though, you are right about that... There will be plenty of time to freak out after it is over. I had no choice about chopping the throttle....there was NO way I was going to be able to keep my hands on the bars. They were really going back and forth amazingly fast....all i could do was sit up and wait for it to end.

*neSLOW10 said: I am Scotts official spokesman and I would trust no other. The best out there by far. Even out survives any other part on the bike :) Judd

*KEVEL said: I disagree, the gas is rarely the problem and almost always the solution. Even Keith Code teaches that... Same thing with wheel spin (rear), if you are in a corner and it starts to spin up and slide sideways a little, don't chop the throttle closed. Just keep it where it is and ride it out. Too much more and you will likely low side, chop it and it grabs traction and you high-side. Same thing for the front, you chop the gas off and now all the weight is on a tire that is unstable. It is important to relax though, you are right about that... There will be plenty of time to freak out after it is over. Keith Code did not teach gassing your way out of a full blown slapper when I attended California Superbike School, nor is it in his books. All that is really possible is to hold on loosely and try your best to just roll the throttle off. If you need to brake or turn you're pretty much fucked...and ZX10Racer is right a damper wound up too tight WILL get the rear end oscillating as well. This is VERY noticeable when riding high speed offroad, desert race style. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtjQ4SK4GXk Just managing to hold on is an achievement.

S*squatch said: #55 needs to clean his leathers after that...

m*ykl said: what about when you are hard on the throttle in a straight line and the front end is skimming the concrete, causing handle bar wiggle (hell yes thats a technical term). It was pretty bad on my 04 so I had my GPR higher than 2. I think 5 to reduce that effect. This is caused by too much rebound damping in the front, or not enough compression in the rear. Also caused by gripping the bars too tight. The best suspension adjustment I ever made was taking a Xanax! :helmet: :wink:

t*hkoh said: I have mine maxed out to 20 clicks on the stockers :lol: cuz I noticed a lot of wiggle in the front at high speeds. After that, none at all. Maybe I will change it to halfway! :badteeth: Mine is all the way as well, no issues with almost 30,000 Stock damper on 08. Cranked to full. I would guess problem with the damper, cos it's still REALLY soft. But I actually kinda like it... What wobbles I've had have been tamed well, with this setting, so far. So I'm stickin with it for now.

*KEVEL said: Stock damper on 08. Cranked to full. I would guess problem with the damper, cos it's still REALLY soft. But I actually kinda like it... What wobbles I've had have been tamed well, with this setting, so far. So I'm stickin with it for now. Send it to Kyle Racing. For $100 which includes shipping he'll make it work how it is supposed to.

t*hkoh said: Send it to Kyle Racing. For $100 which includes shipping he'll make it work how it is supposed to. shipping to brisbane australia??

l*uemc said: Looks like I need to start running mine softer. BTW I just noticed the Scotts damper says ohlins on the back.:dontknow: The Scotts, and the Ohlins Rotary are exactly the same damper, with just different Logo's on them. The Ohlins rotary isn't seen much over here, but, comes on some Euro bikes.

m*qqcbm said: Just put my bike back together after a winter rebuild. New fork seals, PP's, raised to 1/2" lowered vs 1" lowered when I bought it. Never set up the suspension. I've had some wobbles prior to the rebuild. They got my attention but this scard the hell out of me. A few days after completion I'm out screwin' around. Coming out of a turn I roll on. The front end comes up, no biggie. I ride a 10. I'm used to that. When I sit it down, immediate head shake, causes throttle release, causes lock to lock. I try fighting it w/ a death grip then have a moment of clarity. I roll back on the throttle, and it eases. I roll off, it gets worse. I roll back on and it finally subsides.One other valuble piece of info when it comes to full on slappers would be, don't forget to pump your front brakes once the bike has (hopefully) settled as the brake pistons may have been forced back from the pads due to the forces caused during the slap. Last thing you'd want is to survive a full on tank slapper only to go straight through the next hedge cos you couldn't scrub off any speed! It took me about 1/4 mile to get it to stop and I'm coming up on traffic (stopped traffic). I grab a handful of brake, and nothing. Hello down shift/rear brake. I'm pumping the front and it comes back in time. I took the first right and checked my pants. I notice the bike souding funny. Due to me fighting it, the whole bike shook so bad it broke the rear exhaust hanger and bent the stock header @ the mid pipe attachment. Once I got home I also notice the chain guide (not gaurd) had be ripped off & caught up just before the front sprocket. Wow! Some experiences are best learned through someone elses mistakes. I so wish that was the case for me. While I did keep the bike up and manage not to hit anything, I was scared to the point that I stayed off the bike through 2 B-E-A-Utiful days. If this hasn't happened to you, Please read and heed. Thanks for all the great post.

JDSZX10R *8 said: LOts of good info in this thread. Thanx guys.

n*tep86 said: i run mine soft, went into a tank slapper last summer at about 100 and recovered from it without problems, almost pooped my pants but didnt crash.

*ussiezx10r said: Just received an email from Dan Kyle. Total revalve and shipping to Aus is $130 USD. pretty good seeing as our dollar is high at the moment.

P*gMan said: Lots of Great Info, thanks for posting and please keep on. :thumbsup: Never had a Full Slapper on my 07 10 but I did have one on my 99 zx6 a few years back, Its not fun. I got lucky and rode it out ,, But man it scared the shit out of me, literally.. :redface: Great Thread Guys..

th*goodshot said: I picked up my Gen 1 Ohlins from Caboose here and it is very confidence inspiring knowing that it's there. I set it to Ohlins' recommendations and it has been working well. After I installed mine, I explained to my buddy about how it's more of a safety item like good gear than anything so he ordered a HyperPro for is R1. After he installed his I took it around the parking lot and he had it cranked up to the hardest setting. I couldn't even roll around in a circle in a parking lot because the bike didn't want to turn and leaning it over on the kickstand was a chore. I gave him an ear beating for a few minutes telling him that's not the purpose of a damper and that he was making his bike harder to use. He set it to HyperPro recommendations and agreed that this was the way to go.